Off-Centered Travels for Off-Centered People

Ahh, what can you say about the rural, rustic towns of North Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland? Corn and lots of it. Wednesday was a day of rain-sprinkled, mundane travel through three states, but we did get a brief respite on a short butterfly trail filled with fragrant Honeysuckle, ripening wild berries, and vibrant orange blossoms. A highlight of the drives was the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, a diving serpent in the sea. Cars go from riding on a bridge to descending into a tunnel in the bay to rising out of the ocean like the Kraken. Our sole goal for the day was the destruction and pillaging of Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. A quaint, coastal town with the distinction of being home to the Dogfish Head Brewpub. Dogfish Head makes, "Off-centered beer for off-centered people," - so I felt right at home. Stouts, brown ales, IPA's, Coconut beer, and Ancient Ales - I felt like Charlie in the Chocolate Factory. What's on tap for Thursday? Cooperstown, NY and the baseball hall of fame.

Outer Banks, Lighthouses, and the Wright Brothers Oh My!

Sunrise on our last morning on Ocracoke was bitter sweet. We packed everything in the car like kids stuffing toys in a chest, and we headed north towards Cape Hatteras. Our first stop had us climbing 248 twisting, turning cast-iron steps to the top of Hatteras Lighthouse, the tallest lighthouse in America. After exerting considerable energy, we high-tailed it to Bodie Lighthouse - another one of the five lighthouses on the Outer Banks. We setup camp on windiest, most insect ridden campsite on earth for our last night on the Outer Banks. We, then, slid across the hood of our vehicle like Bo and Luke Duke, and we outraced Roscoe P. Coltrane on our way to the Wright Brothers Memorial. The park had pure American ingenuity proudly displayed. We toured the grounds, and a park ranger took years off our life during the most boring lecture since Ferris Bueller's Day Off - "Bueller, Bueller." Later at the campsite, we experienced gale force winds for the entire night. Good bye OBX - Hello Rehoboth Beach.

A Man With A Stick

A picturesque sunrise climbed over the sand dunes on Ocracoke. Yawns, showers, and coffee began the day, and we headed to Hammock Hills Trail for a light hike. A thick swarm of insects nagged the hikers like hecklers at a comedy show. We swatted, slapped, and dodged our way through the hike, which featured a salt marsh that connected to the sound. Our next stop was the oldest still functioning lighthouse in the U.S. The lighthouse on Ocracoke has been in operation since 1823. The hikers morphed into beach bums, and they absorbed the rays of the sunshine like a shamwow absorbs spills. Early afternoon was highlighted by a bike ride all around the island. Bizarre architecture and decorations enlivened the trip. Rain clouds and thunder punctuate a deary late afternoon.

The BUGS! The Horror, the Horror

Swarms of mosquitoes, biting flies, and gnats greeted our road weary travelers as they disembarked the Okracoke Ferry. A small child was carried away by the savage beasts before her poor parents could rescue her. After grieving momentarily, we headed to our campground located in Cape Hatteras National Seashore. Our campsite was nestled near sand dunes that separated our site from the ocean. After setting up camp, we headed to town for supplies and a look around. The sleepy little Okracoke Village comes alive during the summer tourist season. Grilled chicken and asparagus sedated the happy couple and sleep overwhelmed them like Okracoke bugs on babies.

Outer Banks or Bust

Sunday morning coffee transitioned to an all day travel day up South and North Carolina's Atlantic Coast. Beautiful sunshine and no traffic allowed us to slide through Carolina's rural areas and coastal towns like kids playing Candyland. By 11, we had entered North Carolina, home to Tobacco Road and the Tarhills. We picnicked near a marina where we ate in style, turkey wraps and kettle chips. The cool ocean breeze and shade from Live Oaks refreshed our road weary pilgrims. Next stop - the ferry to the Outer Banks.

Blackbeard's Headless Corpse Swam Around the Ship

The thrill seeking couple arrived in Charleston, The Holy City, around 2:00 p.m., and sunshine and a cool breeze greeted them like an old friend. We headed straight for Historic Downtown Charleston to visit the market and tour Battery Park. Gullah Sweetgrass baskets dotted the market and adjacent streets, and we strolled along sun-drenched East Bay Street, which looks over Charleston Harbor and Fort Sumter. After refreshing ourselves, we partook of sustenance and libations at Southend Brewery and Restaurant. Fried green tomatoes, skrimps and grits, and catfish were consumed with a citrusy Juniper Berry, Rye Pale Ale. To end our sensational day in Charleston, we heard spine tingling tales of ghosts, piracy, and the heartbreaking story of Bonney, the slave who saved a burning church

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The Adventure Begins!

In the wee hours of Saturday, your faithful narrator and his stunning fiance packed their chariot for an adventure of a life time. Our luggage, equipment, and supplies were no match for Ann's superior packing skills. We began our 33 day adventure at 7:30 A.M. Our first stop will take us to the seminal Southern town of Charleston. Fort Sumter, pirates, and fresh seafood - here we come.